Initial Sharpening: Dull Knives
Leaving your blade in the machine, while keeping it FLAT against the Blade Guide, use this sawing motion. This should only be used for really dull knives or used to change the angle of a knife quickly. This motion is not necessary for most blades; please see Finishing Stroke.
Finishing Stroke: Semi-Dull Knives
Use this motion for most of your sharpening needs. Most knives are sharpened within 10-20 strokes done at the correct angle. For harder steel knives or really dull knives, use the Initial Sharpening motion.
Note: Make sure you start with the Hilt of the blade at the top of the machine; then pull down and completely through.
For painted, anodized or polished blades:
Using a single strip of Blue Painters Masking tape (semi-sticky) along the entire spine of the blade will protect your polished or painted finish.
Metal dust from your blade can cling to the Blade Guide and cause a patina effect. Keep both the Blade Guide & your Blade clean to prevent metal dust build-up on the Guides.
Our sharpener was primarily designed for hard working knives for commercial and industrial uses.
Adjust the Blade Guide depending on the thickness and style of your blade to ensure an even bevel on both sides of the blade. Most pocket knives and kitchen knives can be sharpened in the middle of the three Blade Guide settings (factory setting).
Blade Guide Adjustment for Even Sharpening
The Blade Guide can be adjusted from 0° to 5°, depending on the thickness of your blade. If the edge appears to be cutting higher on the left side, adjust the guide to the right and visa versa until an even edge on both sides is achieved.
Set the “V” to adjust knobs a & b
Use the adjustment knobs a & b to align the intersection of the hone rods.
For WEDGE blades, this intersection should be adjacent to
the Blade Guide.
Setting for PARALLEL blades should be a small distance from the Blade Guide, depending on the thickness of the blade.
Adjustable Angles
Hone rods can be adjusted from 20° to 25° or 30° by using the different angle slots at the bottom of the inner slide, as shown.
Unclip the top end of the Hone Rod and move it to the desired angle slot.
Ensure both rods are set to the same angle!
- 17° (XE Model Only) scalpels, filet, straight razors– delicate edge for fine cutting
- 20° Fillet, paring & other thin blade knives– delicate edge that requires frequent touch-ups.
- 25° Chefs, kitchen, hunting, pocket, boning, carving, paring– slicing edge for meats, vegetables & soft materials.
- 30° Chopping, survival knives, machetes– durable edge for cutting wood, cardboard, ropes, electric cords, etc.
Run a marker along the Primary Edge of the blade to help find the right angle after drawing blade through sharpener for a few strokes.
V-SHARP® comes with 325 grit Diamond Plate & Finishing Steels. Optional diamond plates ar eavailable in 600 grit & 1000 grit.
325 grit Creates rough, toothy edge. Used on most general purpose blades. (use with 20°, 25° or 30°)
600 grit Creates a smoother,toothy edge. Used on special purpose blades like taxidermy and fine pocket knives. (use with 20° or 25°)
1000 grit Creates a fine, polished edge. Used on scalpels and leather tools. (use with 20° or 17°)
Check the edge by GENTLY TOUCHING IT on your thumbnail.
If the blade sticks to your nail from the Heel to the tip of the blade, you have successfully achieved a Cutting Edge and can now continue with finer grits or use the Finishing Steels to produce a Shaving Edge.
If the blade slips off the nail at a specific location, use the Initial Sharpening motion on that particular spot to get the edge. Then always finish with the Finishing Stroke to get the entire edge consistently flat.
Do the Finishing Stroke in 10 – 15 stroke increments to prevent over-sharpening.
Once you have achieved a consistent CUTTING edge from heel to tip, unclip and flip the rods so the Finishing Steels are facing upward and increase to the next angle (if you sharpened your blade on 20, then set the Finishing Steels to 25).
Pull your blade through another 10 – 15 strokes to achieve a SHAVING edge.
This edge is more delicate and will tend to dull more quickly. Since the Finishing Steels are not removing any metal (they align and smoothen the edge) we recommend frequent steeling between sharpening to keep YOUR EDGE and YOUR BLADE!